Paint every Khazalite Holds unit from the same four-part foundation: one armour metal, one dark recess shade, one stone colour and one leather colour. Add a single controlled clan accent to shields, cloth and selected runes, then repeat the same basing and rune treatment across the force. This gives Clanshields, Gholems, artillery, Guardians and any allied Grimmdron models a shared duardin identity without making every model identical.
What makes a Khazalite Holds army look unified?
A unified army is not an army in which every panel is the same colour. It is an army in which the largest, most repeated visual decisions are consistent. On Khazalite Holds models, those decisions are armour, leather, stone, recess shading, basing and the way runes are illuminated. If those elements recur from unit to unit, a different shield colour or clan cloth still reads as deliberate variation rather than a collection of unrelated miniatures.
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That approach suits the faction’s identity. Games Workshop revealed Khazalite Holds on 18 September 2026 as a new Age of Sigmar duardin faction built around heavily armoured warriors, hammers, mountain karaks and the memory of the Ancestor Gods. The karaks combine upper halls with underground deeps, while the great forge is described as the hold’s pounding heart. Underground farms and gem mines support the holds’ self-sufficiency. Those themes naturally support a palette of worked metal, dark stone, leather, forge heat and restrained jewel-like accents.
No Khazalite-specific studio paint recipe has been published in the material available for this guide. The colours below are therefore a practical scheme derived from the faction’s forge, karak, stone, gem and ancestor imagery, not a canonical Games Workshop army scheme. You can substitute equivalent paints from any range while keeping the relationships between colours intact.
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Build the palette around four shared foundations
Choose the foundation colours before painting the first batch. Write down the exact paints, thinning method and shade sequence in a notebook or project tracker. The record matters more than the brand name: six months later, consistency depends on knowing precisely which metal, wash and drybrush you used.
| Foundation | Recommended visual direction | Where it repeats | Why it unifies the army |
|---|---|---|---|
| Armour metal | Warm iron, dark steel or muted bronze | Helmets, plates, mail, weapon heads, artillery frames and construct fittings | The largest repeated surface ties infantry, machines and stone beings together. |
| Recess shade | A deep brown-black or cool black-brown chosen to suit the metal | Panel lines, joints, undersides, engraved borders and gaps between plates | One shadow temperature makes disparate materials appear to belong to the same hold. |
| Stone | Slate, granite or charcoal grey with a lighter drybrush | Gholem bodies, masonry, weapon stones, scenic elements and bases | It connects the underground karak to the models’ battlefield footprint. |
| Leather | One dark brown, reddish brown or nearly black leather | Straps, gloves, belts, scabbards, pouches and tool handles | Repeated small details create a strong visual rhythm between units. |
Warm bronze gives a more forge-lit, ceremonial appearance; iron gives a harder mining-and-war impression. Either works, but changing the primary metal halfway through the collection weakens the army’s identity. If you want both metals, designate one as the dominant armour colour and reserve the other for weapon edges, trim or senior characters.
Armour: establish the visual anchor
Apply the armour metal to the largest plates first. A dark undercoat makes a warm iron or bronze look weighty and helps recesses stay deep. For a brighter army, start with a mid-tone metal and shade selectively rather than covering every surface in black. Keep the same highlight direction: for example, place the brightest line on upper rims and exposed corners on every model.
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1Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute2Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problems3Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesDo not give every trim line a bright highlight. Reserve the sharpest edge highlight for helmets, shoulder rims, hammer heads and the top-facing edges of shields. This preserves contrast for runes and clan accents. On a large model such as High Kyng Valankrom, use the same metal recipe but add an extra highlight pass to the focal armour rather than inventing a new colour.
Recess shade: the army’s shadow language
A single dark shade is more important than a large selection of washes. Push it into plate joins, beneath shoulder guards, around gloves, under backpack fittings and between stone components. On bronze, a brown-black shade keeps the forge warmth; on iron, a neutral or slightly cool black-brown gives a cleaner industrial result. If the shade pools on broad plates, wick away the excess before it dries and restore the base metal on the raised surface.
Stone: separate it from metal without leaving the palette
Use a clearly non-metallic grey for Gholems and masonry. A slate base followed by a medium grey drybrush and a small light-grey edge pass gives stone volume quickly. Avoid making stone the same value as the armour: if both are mid-grey, the silhouette disappears. Either darken the stone substantially or make the metal warmer and brighter.
For gem mines and ancestor imagery, add a few tiny mineral flecks in the chosen accent colour rather than painting every stone as a jewel. Sparse points of colour suggest a resource-rich hold while keeping the army restrained.
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Leather: the quiet connector
Paint all straps, gloves, belts and pouches with one leather colour before shading. A reddish brown reinforces a hot forge palette; a near-black brown creates a more severe, subterranean look. Highlight only the raised folds and edges. The same leather on a Clanshield’s straps, a Clanggunner’s gloves and a Runewright’s tool belt is easy to repeat and immediately improves cohesion.
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Use a 70/20/10 balance for variation
A useful painter’s heuristic is 70/20/10: approximately 70 percent foundation colours, 20 percent secondary material or cloth, and 10 percent accent. It is not a published Khazalite statistic. Treat it as a guardrail against over-decoration.
- Foundation: armour metal, stone, leather and the dark recess treatment.
- Secondary: cloth, shield faces, wood, rope, weapon hafts and small neutral details.
- Accent: one clan colour used on selected shields, cloth panels, pennants, lenses and rune glow.
If a model starts to look noisy, remove colour from secondary areas before changing the accent. A single accent repeated in several small locations reads more strongly than five unrelated bright colours.
Choose one accent colour for clans and battlefield roles
Red, ochre and teal all fit the faction’s forge, mineral and ancestor themes. Pick one as the army-wide accent, then vary its value or pattern for clans instead of introducing a new hue for every unit.
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|---|---|---|---|
| Deep red | High contrast against iron and bronze | Shield faces, banners, cloth panels and hammer markings | Keep it dark or desaturated if the metal is bright; reserve the brightest red for characters. |
| Ochre or muted gold | Moderate contrast against bronze, strong contrast against dark iron | Clan bands, hazard marks, runes and trim | Use sparingly on bronze so the armour does not lose its hierarchy. |
| Teal or blue-green | Strong complementary contrast against warm bronze | Runes, lenses, cloth, gems and magical effects | Repeat it on every unit, but keep glow areas small so the army remains forge-led. |
For clan identification, give one group a solid shield colour, another a stripe or quartered pattern, and a third a plain shield with a coloured rune. The foundation remains unchanged. This lets you recognise units at a distance without sacrificing the appearance of one host.
Apply the scheme to every Khazalite unit
Clanshields
Use Clanshields as the test unit because they contain the full recipe: broad armour, leather equipment, shields, weapons and repeated runic or heraldic details. Paint a complete test model before starting a batch. Check the metal-to-accent ratio at arm’s length and under the lighting in which you normally play or photograph the army.
Keep shield rims in the armour metal. Put the accent on the shield face, a cloth panel or a central symbol, not on every border. If the shields become the brightest part of the army, lower the accent’s saturation or add a thin shade to bring it back under control.
Gholems of Gazul and Gholems of Valaya
Make stone the dominant material, but retain the army’s metal on harnesses, weapon heads, chains and fittings. The same accent used on infantry shields can appear as a carved rune, gem seam or small cloth tie. If you build Gholems of Valaya instead of Gholems of Gazul, change the sculpted details or iconography rather than the foundation colours; both variants will still belong to the same karak.
On large stone surfaces, vary the direction of drybrushing slightly between models to avoid a repeated stencil effect. Keep the colours and final highlight identical even when the texture placement differs.
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Oathkeeper Cannon or Stonebreaker Mortar
Paint the artillery frame in the armour metal and its stone ammunition in the same slate recipe as the Gholems. Use the accent on a shield-sized panel, crew cloth or a small rune, not across the entire engine. If you build the Stonebreaker Mortar option, the shared metal, leather, stone and base make the alternate build fit the rest of the battery without needing a separate scheme.
Paint crew members with the same process as Clanshields. Their smaller armour areas may need a lighter final edge highlight to remain visible beside the large gun.
Clangunners
Clangunners benefit from strong value separation because their weapons and equipment can create a dense silhouette. Keep the armour metal slightly brighter on the firearm or mechanical components, while leaving the leather and cloth darker. A small accent on ammunition pouches, a shoulder panel or a lens is enough to connect them to the infantry line.
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Thrynns and Runewrights
Use the shared metal and leather on Thrynns, then concentrate the accent on their distinctive cloth, shield or weapon markings. For Runewrights, make runes the focal point without changing the entire model to a glowing colour. Paint the rune recess in the accent, add a smaller light mark inside it, and glaze the immediate surrounding area very lightly if you want an aura. The glow should sit on top of the same dark recess language used elsewhere.
High Kyng Valankrom
Keep the ruler inside the army’s palette so the model looks like the leader of the same hold. Add distinction through additional edge highlights, richer leather, a larger accent panel and more carefully placed runes. Avoid introducing a second primary metal solely to make the character special; the model’s sculpt, pose and controlled brightness already provide status.
Valayan Guardians
Paint the Guardians with the same armour, leather, stone and base recipe. Their accent can be placed more prominently on shields or cloth if you want them to read as a recognisable bodyguard unit. Repeat the same shape or stripe on every member rather than giving each model a different heraldic design.
Integrate Grimmdron and existing Fyreslayers
The Khazalite Holds battletome incorporates the Fyreslayers, referred to in this context as Grimmdron, and the reveal confirms that existing Fyreslayer miniatures can be used. Their exposed skin and flame motifs are naturally more distinctive than the enclosed armour of Khazalite units. Do not repaint those features until they lose their identity. Instead, make the army’s shared elements do the integrating.
- Rebase the Fyreslayers with the exact same texture, grit size, drybrush colours and rim colour used on Khazalite models.
- Match the dominant metal as closely as the sculpts allow. If the Fyreslayer metal is brighter, apply the same shade and a controlled dulling layer to bring it toward the Khazalite value.
- Use the Khazalite accent on a shield, cloth strip, gem or rune so the models repeat the army’s colour signal.
- Keep flame effects warm and recognisable, but limit additional bright colours elsewhere on the model.
- Paint leather straps, pouches and weapon hafts with the established leather recipe.
The result should look like allied members of one duardin host, not identical subfactions. Shared bases and foundation colours do most of the work; the preserved skin and flame details provide character.
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Choose a Battle Ready workflow: Classic or Contrast
Games Workshop defines Battle Ready as a model with its main areas coloured and a simple base finish. The official Classic method uses Base, Shade and Technical paints. The official Contrast method uses Contrast and Technical paints over an appropriate undercoat. Both can produce a coherent Khazalite army when the same foundation colours are repeated.
| Method | Speed | Opacity and coverage | Edge control | Best fit for this army |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic: Base, Shade, Technical | Slower on the first unit, efficient once the brush sequence is established | Predictable opaque colour; easy to correct mistakes | Strong control over armour edges, stone planes and selective highlights | Best when you want crisp metal plates, controlled shadows and a polished character model. |
| Contrast: Contrast and Technical over an appropriate undercoat | Fast for large batches and textured surfaces | Transparent shading varies with pooling and undercoat smoothness | Less predictable on broad armour plates; requires careful pooling control | Best when speed matters and you are comfortable restoring raised armour with a layer highlight. |
A hybrid is often practical: use a Contrast colour for leather or stone texture, then use the Classic approach for armour metal, runes and accent panels. The method can change by material, but the final colours and basing must remain constant.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Batch-paint the army in a repeatable sequence
- Prime consistently. Use one undercoat across the army unless a deliberate value difference is required. A dark primer supports heavy iron and bronze; a mid-tone primer speeds a brighter scheme.
- Block the armour. Paint every major plate, weapon head and metal fitting with the chosen armour colour. Do not highlight yet.
- Block stone. Paint Gholem bodies, masonry, ammunition and scenic rocks with the established slate or granite colour. Keep stone off metal fittings.
- Block leather. Fill straps, gloves, belts, pouches and handles with the single leather colour. Correct overspill before shading.
- Add cloth and wood. Use a restrained neutral secondary colour so the accent remains reserved for the marks that identify the hold or unit.
- Apply the recess shade. Work it into plate joins, stone cracks, joints and deep leather folds. Remove pools from flat armour and stone faces.
- Restore raised surfaces. Reapply the base metal, stone or leather to broad areas while leaving the shade visible in recesses.
- Highlight metal and stone. Add a controlled edge highlight to upper armour rims and a lighter drybrush or edge pass to stone. Keep the brightest value for focal points.
- Paint the accent. Apply the chosen red, ochre or teal to shields, cloth, selected runes, lenses or gems. Repeat a recognisable placement pattern within each unit.
- Finish runes. Paint the rune recess, add a smaller bright mark and clean the surrounding metal. Use glow sparingly.
- Finish bases identically. Apply the same texture, shade, drybrush and rim colour to every base, including Grimmdron models.
- Inspect as a formation. Place the completed models together. If one unit attracts the eye for the wrong reason, reduce saturation or brightness before adding more detail.
Work in batches of five to ten infantry models, but complete one model from each unusual category before committing to a large run. A Clanshield, Gholem, artillery crew member, Runewright and character will reveal whether the palette works across different materials.
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Bases are the most reliable way to unify mixed sculpts. Use one texture recipe that suggests the hold’s mountain and underground environments: dark grit or slate, a drybrush that echoes the stone colour, and a final light pass on raised rocks. Add a few mineral fragments or small painted gem flecks in the army accent, but keep them subordinate to the model.
Paint every base rim the same colour. A neutral dark rim frames warm bronze, cool iron and red, ochre or teal accents without competing with them. Scenic pieces can vary in shape and height, but not in the overall colour temperature or finishing steps.
Plan paints and track the recipe
The Warhammer Colour site groups the current range into Base/Layer, Contrast, Shade, Technical and Spray categories. The Paint Warhammer app includes painting guides, project tracking, inventory management and a comparison tool. Use those resources to locate equivalent colours and record substitutions, but judge the final result on the model rather than relying on a colour name alone.
A compact shopping plan contains:
- One spray or brush-on undercoat.
- One primary armour metal and, if desired, a secondary metal for weapon edges or trim.
- One dark recess shade.
- One stone base colour plus one lighter drybrush colour.
- One leather colour plus a lighter leather highlight.
- One accent colour and a brighter version for runes or sharp marks.
- One neutral cloth or wood colour.
- One base texture, one base shade or stain, one drybrush colour and one rim colour.
- A matte varnish if the finished army will receive heavy handling.
Record the order of operations, not only the paint names. For example: armour base, leather base, stone base, shade, armour restoration, stone drybrush, accent, rune highlight, basing. That sequence is what lets a later unit match an earlier one.
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The army looks like several unrelated factions
Check the bases, dominant metal and leather first. If any of those differ, repainting small heraldic details will not solve the problem. Standardise the base texture and rim, then apply the same shade to the major armour areas.
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The metal is flat and the models disappear at gaming distance
Deepen recesses, restore the base metal on raised panels and add a narrow highlight to upper edges. Do not brighten every surface. Contrast comes from keeping shadows dark while placing light only where the sculpt turns toward the light.
The accent overwhelms the forge palette
Reduce the number of accent locations or desaturate the paint with a neutral mix. The accent should identify a clan or role, not replace the armour as the army’s largest colour mass.
Stone and armour merge together
Change value before changing hue. Darken the stone, brighten the metal, or make the metal warmer. Add a thin dark line at the boundary between the two materials to restore separation.
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Contrast paint pools on armour plates
Move the paint with a clean damp brush while it is still wet, especially near rims and flat shields. Once dry, re-establish the plate with the underlying base colour and use a controlled edge highlight. Contrast works better on textured leather and stone than on perfectly flat armour unless the surface is carefully prepared.
Fyreslayer models look detached
Match the bases, metal value and leather first. Then repeat the army accent on one or two controlled details. Leave the distinctive skin and flame motifs intact; erasing them makes the models less recognisable without improving cohesion.
Expand the collection without losing consistency
Before starting a new kit, place it beside the finished army and answer three questions: Which surfaces receive the primary metal? Where will the shared leather appear? Where can the accent repeat without becoming the dominant colour? If the kit has little armour, use the same shade and accent on its tools, trim or runes; if it has no stone, bring the karak connection through the base.
Photograph the test model under the same light used for army photos. A recipe that looks balanced under a warm desk lamp can become too red or too dark under neutral daylight. Keep one finished reference model available while painting later units, and compare completed batches before sealing them.
Final checklist for a single duardin host
- Every unit uses the same dominant armour metal.
- Every model shares one dark recess treatment.
- Leather straps, gloves, belts and pouches use one recipe.
- Stone constructs, ammunition and scenic rock share a stone palette.
- Clan or role variation is limited to one controlled accent.
- Runes use the same glow colours and brightness hierarchy.
- All bases use identical texture, drybrush and rim steps.
- Grimmdron or existing Fyreslayer models repeat the metal, leather, accent and basing decisions while retaining their exposed skin and flame motifs.
- The recipe is written down so future Khazalite Holds kits can match it.
This combination gives the range a clear visual logic: the forge supplies the metal, the karak supplies the stone, the hold supplies the leather and basing, and the clan accent supplies identity. Variation remains visible, but the army still photographs and plays as one duardin force.
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