You can make a custom D&D miniature by sculpting or modifying a model, choosing a properly licensed STL file to print, or ordering a personalized design. For most players, printing an existing or customized STL is the practical route: resin printers capture the finest small details, while filament (FDM) printers are easier to operate and work well for larger figures and terrain. Either way, expect some cleanup and finishing before the miniature is ready for the table.
Choose how you want to make the miniature
- Sculpt it from scratch: Create a digital model yourself if you want full control and are ready to learn digital sculpting. You can also hand-sculpt a figure, though that is a different process from 3D printing.
- Print an STL: Download or buy a model file, check its license, and print it at home or through a printing service. This is often the quickest path to a custom figure.
- Modify an existing miniature: Kitbash or alter a figure to create a distinct character. Check the original miniature’s terms if you plan to distribute or sell copies.
- Order a custom design: A custom character-design service can be convenient if you want a personalized figure without learning to sculpt. Check the service’s current terms for what you may download, print, or sell.
The rest of this guide focuses on the print-and-finish route, since it covers the steps from a digital file to a tabletop-ready miniature.
Choose resin or FDM printing
Resin and FDM (fused deposition modeling, also called filament printing) solve different problems. Resin is the detail-first option for small characters; FDM is a more general-purpose choice for beginners, larger figures, and terrain.
| What matters | Resin | FDM / filament |
|---|---|---|
| Small details | Best suited to fine features and smoother surfaces on miniature-scale figures. | Layer structure is more visible at miniature scale, so tiny details can be less crisp. |
| Getting started | Requires careful handling of uncured resin and additional cleanup. | Generally easier to operate and maintain. |
| Good fit | Small character figures with fine details. | Larger monsters, terrain, and colored models. |
| After printing | Wash with isopropyl alcohol to remove residual uncured resin, then let the print dry before finishing. | Printed models commonly need post-processing before painting. |
| Durability | Can be more brittle and more prone to damage from drops than many plastic or pewter miniatures. | Useful when you want a more general-purpose printer; the cited hobby guide does not establish a universal durability comparison across filament types. |
If tiny facial features, armor details, or weapon shapes matter most, resin is the stronger fit—but only if you are prepared to handle uncured material carefully and wash the print. If you value a simpler learning curve or want to print terrain as well as figures, FDM is a practical starting point. Neither route removes the need to inspect, clean, and finish the model.
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- Read Before You Buy — No Video Output: These adapters support charging and USB 2.0 data transfer, but cannot transmit video signals. Except for standard USB webcams (which use USB data only), they are not compatible with HDMI/DisplayPort cables, video-capable USB-C hubs, or docking stations with video output.
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Prepare a printable model
An STL file is a digital blueprint for a three-dimensional object. Before printing, check the model and its usage terms rather than assuming that any miniature file can be used for any purpose.
- Check the file: Confirm that the STL opens correctly and that the model is not visibly corrupt.
- Orient the figure: Choose an orientation that balances the details you want to preserve with the model’s strength.
- Level the build plate: Follow the printer maker’s instructions for leveling before a print.
- Choose print settings: Use settings appropriate to your printer, material, and model. There is no single setting that works for every machine and file.
- Add supports where needed: Supported overhangs can help a model print, but supports also need to be removed carefully afterward.
- Check the license: Read the creator’s terms, especially if you may sell physical prints. Permission to download or print a file does not automatically mean you may sell copies.
Print, clean, and finish the miniature
Think of printing as one stage in the process, not the final step. A small test print can reveal problems with orientation, supports, or detail before you commit to a finished figure.
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- 5-in-1 USB-C Hub: Experience comprehensive connectivity featuring a Power Delivery input, two USB-A 2.0 ports, a USB-A 3.0 port, and an HDMI port. (Note: The USB-C power delivery input port is only for connecting an external wall charger to power your laptop and cannot power peripheral devices.)
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- What You Get: Anker USB-C Hub (5-in-1, 4K HDMI), welcome guide, 18-month warranty, and our friendly customer service.
- Run a test print: Inspect the result for missing details, failed supports, or other visible defects.
- Remove the figure from the build plate: Follow the printer’s handling instructions and take care not to damage thin parts.
- Remove supports carefully: Work slowly around delicate features such as weapons, fingers, horns, and tails.
- Wash resin prints: Use isopropyl alcohol to remove residual uncured resin. Handle uncured resin carefully and follow the material and printer makers’ safety instructions.
- Let the figure dry: Allow a washed resin print to dry before moving on to finishing.
- Correct visible defects: Smooth or fill imperfections where appropriate, then attach the miniature to a base if it needs one.
- Prime and paint if desired: Painting is optional. Acrylic miniature paints and detail brushes are common finishing supplies when you want a customized, table-ready look.
Know what D&D licensing does—and does not—allow
Wizards of the Coast and D&D Beyond distinguish material released under the System Reference Document (SRD) from the broader D&D setting and intellectual property. D&D Beyond’s Creator FAQ says: Anything you create using SRD 5.2.1 or SRD 5.1 is yours!
The SRD materials are available under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license (CC-BY-4.0), which requires attribution. The official SRD page says creators may print and sell compatible 5e or 5.5e content under the applicable SRD permissions.
That permission is not blanket clearance for every D&D monster, character, setting, logo, or name. Material outside the SRD—including fan art and other work based on broader Wizards intellectual property—is addressed by Wizards’ Fan Content Policy. If you intend to sell a miniature, check both the model creator’s license and the applicable Wizards policy; do not assume that a familiar D&D name or design is covered by the SRD.
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- 5-in-1 Connectivity: Equipped with a 4K HDMI port, a 5 Gbps USB-C data port, two 5 Gbps USB-A ports, and a USB C 100W PD-IN port. Note: The USB C 100W PD-IN port supports only charging and does not support data transfer devices such as headphones or speakers.
- Powerful Pass-Through Charging: Supports up to 85W pass-through charging so you can power up your laptop while you use the hub. Note: Pass-through charging requires a charger (not included). Note: To achieve full power for iPad, we recommend using a 45W wall charger.
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- What You Get: Anker 332 USB-C Hub (5-in-1), welcome guide, our worry-free 18-month warranty, and friendly customer service.
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- Next-Level 10Gbps & 3A Charging: No more slow 480Mbps, this usb to usb c adapter has a transfer speed of up to 10Gbps, allowing you to do more transferring in less time. This usb adapter fits both USB A and USB C charger, supporting up to 3A fast charging
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- What You Get: Anker USB-C Hub (7-in-1), welcome guide, 18-month warranty, and our friendly customer service.
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